Beyond the bullet train: Helping Australians discover the real Japan

For many Australians, Japan begins with the neon blur of Tokyo, the powder snow of Niseko or the endless stream of social media videos showcasing ramen, cherry blossoms and vending machines.

But for Northern Beaches author and Japan specialist Jane Lawson, the real magic of Japan exists somewhere deeper, quieter and far more layered than most travelers ever see.

It lives in tiny mountain villages and hidden laneways. In old wooden farmhouses, local markets and fleeting conversations with strangers. In tea ceremonies held inside private homes and in the stillness of moss-covered temple gardens where time seems to slow down completely.

After more than four decades immersed in Japanese culture, Jane has now distilled that lifelong fascination into her latest book, Secret Japan, a deeply personal guide encouraging travelers to move beyond the obvious and experience the country more thoughtfully.

Her relationship with Japan first began on the Northern Beaches while studying Japanese at Mackellar Girls High School more than 45 years ago.

“It was my first taste of Japanese culture and food,” Jane says.

Then came her first trip to Japan a few years later.

“I was immediately fascinated by the contrasts,” she says.

“The intensity and energy of Tokyo alongside this incredible sense of refinement, ritual and beauty. Very much old meets new.”

At first, the attraction was instinctive and youthful.

“It was probably the colour and movement and great fashion,” she laughs.

But over time, the relationship evolved into something much deeper.

“Even now, after decades of travel and several years living in Kyoto, I still learn something new every trip.”

“In many ways, the more I know, the more I realise how much remains hidden beneath the surface.”

That idea became the foundation for Secret Japan, written in the aftermath of the pandemic tourism boom when Jane noticed travellers increasingly funnelled into the same heavily promoted locations.

“There’s so much more beyond the obvious,” she says.

“Incredible villages, regional communities and deeply layered cultural experiences often exist just beyond the outskirts of major cities.”

Rather than another checklist style travel guide, Jane wanted the book to feel more like a companion that teaches people how to experience Japan, not simply where to go.

“It’s less about ticking off destinations and more about how Japan feels when you truly immerse yourself in it.”

For Jane, going beyond the surface often means slowing down enough to notice what others miss.

“Stay longer in one place instead of racing through five cities,” she says.

“Sit quietly in a tiny café long enough for a local to strike up a conversation.”

“Wander through backstreets and laneways because often that’s where the pure magic of Japan is waiting.”

Some of the country’s most memorable experiences, she says, are almost impossibly subtle.

A small seasonal festival in a regional town. Learning indigo dyeing or kintsugi from an artisan. Sharing tea with a monk who quietly explains Zen philosophy.

“Some of the most powerful moments in Japan are incredibly quiet and fleeting,” Jane says.

“To truly experience Japan’s texture is to strip away the layers one by one.”

Despite Japan’s growing popularity among Australians, Jane understands why some first time visitors still feel slightly intimidated by the language and cultural differences.

But she says those fears disappear quickly once people arrive.

“People are often surprised by how safe, clean, orderly and generous it feels,” she says.

“There’s a real sense of care in Japan.”

And increasingly, Australians are not just visiting once.

“I’m talking people returning eight, 12, even 15 times,” she laughs.

“People become completely obsessed with the place, almost as much as I am.”

Part of Japan’s appeal lies in its extraordinary contrasts.

One day might involve hiking ancient cedar forest trails through old post towns. The next could involve futuristic robotics, quirky themed cafés or tiny hidden sake bars tucked beneath Tokyo train stations.

Then there is the food, something Jane speaks about with obvious reverence.

“It is mind blowingly good,” she says.

“Each of Japan’s 47 prefectures has its own specialties and delicacies.”

A former chef and food director at Murdoch Books, Jane’s own tours through Japan naturally place food and local makers at the centre of the experience.

“We spend time with artisans, farmers, fisherfolk and small producers,” she says.

“We dine in tiny restaurants you’d never discover on your own.”

Her tours are intentionally small and deeply personal.

“For me it’s always about depth, intimacy and access,” she says.

“I want travellers to feel immersed rather than processed.”

What has stayed with her most over the years, however, are not necessarily the destinations themselves but the transformations she witnesses in people.

“Watching guests completely fall in love with Japan is probably the best part of my job.”

She has seen lifelong friendships form within tour groups, people launch sake businesses together and even romance blossom between travelers.

“True story,” she laughs.

Back home on the Northern Beaches, Jane says her upbringing surrounded by the ocean and nature deeply shaped the way she experiences Japan.

“My dad used to say the Northern Beaches was the best place in the world and ask why anyone would ever leave,” she says.

Eventually, she managed to convince him to visit Japan too.

“He absolutely loved it.”

Jane believes growing up beside the sea taught her to notice atmosphere, rhythm and subtle shifts in nature, something that has profoundly influenced the way she experiences Japan.

“Japan is rich with nuance and detail,” she says.

“If you don’t know to look for it, you can miss so much.”

Ultimately, she hopes Secret Japan encourages readers to travel differently not just in Japan, but everywhere.

“To slow down, become more present and let go of rigid expectations,” she says.

“Surface skipping and box ticking will only ever reveal the public face of Japan, not the far more interesting private one.”

For anyone still considering whether to finally book that first trip?

Jane’s answer is immediate.

“Just go,” she says.

“What are you waiting for?”

You can buy Jane's book Secret Japan here Secret Japan | Book by Jane Lawson | Official Publisher Page | Simon & Schuster AU

For more than four decades, Jane Lawson has explored Japan with a level of curiosity and immersion few outsiders ever achieve. A former chef, food publisher and highly regarded food and travel writer, she is celebrated for her ability to uncover the soul of Japan through its food, traditions and the quiet beauty of everyday life.

Jane is the author of Zenbu Zen, Tokyo Style Guide, Yoshoku and A Little Taste of Japan, and the founder of Zenbu Tours, a boutique travel company specialising in deeply immersive culinary and cultural journeys. She also created Zenbu Home, an online store showcasing handcrafted Japanese objects and timeless pieces inspired by Japan’s enduring design philosophy.